So This is Why They Call It Culture Shock

January 14, 2010 - Yako, Burkina Faso

Actually, it's just after midnight on the 14th and I should be in bed, sleeping. The late evening is the witching hour for me - the time when my energy is spent, when I am the most discouraged. I usually try to avoid writing at this time because of this, but I wanted to try and capture the feeling that I have right now. The trip to Yako today was uneventful. Yako is situated in an extremely dry area - I am told that even in the rainy season it is still relatively dry compared to the southern and western areas ot the country, and that desertification is a major issue. It is very rural and very African, but it is also reminiscent of every rural village that I have encountered. The people are very friendly and are curious about my presence here, but they are quite shy, at least so far. Westerners are fairly common here because of the many international partnerships with my host organization (association Solidarité et Entraide Mutuelle au Sahel or SEMUS, http://www.semus.bf/ ), so I did not feel like I "stood out." Shortly after our arrival in the late afternoon we had a meeting with the head of the department that coordinates community health issues and the HIV testing and treatment clinic, the managers of the various areas, a volunteer from Montreal who has been on site since November, helping with communication issues for SEMUS, the physician who is my liaison while I'm here, and the chargé d'affairs for EUMC. The program for the next two weeks had been worked out in advance, and I was anticipating that this meeting was to ensure that all were informed regarding the schedule of events. It was presented to me in a very detailed manner, outlining formal presentations by all of the organizations involved in health services delivery for the area, an opportunity to visit regional centres, and time with the physician during his clinics. I was then asked for my opinion. "What the heck do I know?" I asked myself. The discussion had been rife with acronyms and abbreviations with which I am still not familiar. I had no concept of how health care services were delivered and little knowledge of the community and customs. I had no objection to the plan so I thanked them for their efforts and agreed to proceed. It was at that point that the EUMC chargé d'affairs informed the group and reminded me that prior to our departure, Pierre Allard had asked for a day in Ouaga at the end of the mandate in order to review the observations and outcomes from both sites. She also made other suggestions that threw everything out the window. I had been told that such things did not happen in meeting in Burkina. I felt like a fish out of water while I attempted to follow the discussion. Thank goodness the young man from Montreal would frequently catch my eye, as if to reassure me that he knew how I felt. Eventually, a plan was set in place and although I was again asked for my opinion, I had nothing to add. My Montreal friend suggested that we take some time for orientation the next day and went home, and the rest of us walked a few metres up the road to an outdoor cafe that consisted of a few old outdoor tables and chairs in a dusty lot next door to the very basic building that housed the kitchen. There were a few light on in the buildings but where we were sitting it was very dark (now I felt like I stood out!). We ate grilled chicken and French fries from a communal plate, talked about football (soccer) as there is a major tournament underway in Angola right now, as well as local, national and African politics - all topic that I am famous for knowing nothing about.

Earlier in the day I had been shown my room in the "centre de hébergement." It was very hostel-like: small, with a bed, a desk and a chair, as well as a bathroom with a toilet (no seat), a sink and a shower. It was not until I returned from dinner that I realized that they had been working on the plumbing but had forgotten to turn the water back on. As well, my bed had only a single sheet covering the mattress. I'll be sleeping under my emergency airline blanket and I'll be scruffy-looking when I show up for work in the morning.

I am feeling defeated, but I remind myself that I know that it would feel this way. I hope that by tomorrow I will regain my enthusiasm and confidence.

I apologize for the stilted writing style that results from not being able to use people's names. As this is a public site I am obligated to not use people's names without consent, and I am way too tired to make up fictitious ones. Maybe next time.

The video is a view from the gate looking in to the SEMUS compound.